By: Bamijoko Favour 

Image Credits: Vogue

Quite interestingly, the students of the University of Ibadan are really industrious. There is perhaps no aspect within the realm of the entertainment sector that has eluded active involvement of students of the school. From songwriting, to singing to painting, dancing, handcrafts, fashion and modelling. The list is endless, but let’s talk about modelling.

Modelling refers to the work of fashion models whose job it is to wear new clothes or new styles of clothing and dressing in order to exhibit them to viewers or the public. To take a more subjective position, modelling appeals differently to different individuals. Oftentimes some are models because it is a hand-me-down trait they gleaned off a close relation, or picked up while watching the TV, at other times, you find those who attribute their involvement in modelling to the fact that it provides a channel of expression, an art in itself. In an article by Fibre2Fashion, it was stated that “fashion modelling is a form of performance art that involves showcasing clothing, accessories, and beauty products.

Speaking on her own motivation, Semilore Adewole (BelindaShalls; Height 5 ‘8, waist 25 cm & bust 32cm) said, “the most important motivation that spurred my interest was that my elder sister was already into modeling beforehand. Moreover, I recall loving the way models walked on my parents’ TV.”

Very frequently, we find those who rode on the backs of adulations from admirers to becoming models. With a height of 6’2, Donald Ayanfeoluwa, a 200L student from the Department of Philosophy tells us “Officially I started modeling 2023, but before then, many people complimented me about how I looked and my height also and how I would fit well as a model. In 2023 I decided to take that step and a friend of mine registered me under an agency in Ibadan.”

“I’ve always liked fashion but that wasn’t exactly what spurred me into modeling”, Oyinbusola Igbehinadun, 5’8, says. He only decided to become a model based on some people’s advice on “my physique and body and face structure.” For Omolola Asanso (Size 6, 5’8), a 400L student of computer science, modelling began for her nine years ago, in 2015. And ever since then, she’s remained actively involved in modelling.”

One thing is clear; we colour our visual world through fashion. Through fashion, individuals are able to give wings to inner imagination and promptings. Gazing further through this lens, one thing we come to see is how fashion models show us the many possible ways with which we can further combine several colours together to make our visual world more kaleidoscopic.

Therefore, modelling is essentially an avenue for self-expression. This explains why most models would frequently note that ‘self-expression’ is the significance modelling holds for them.

“Modelling, to me, is an expression”, Ayomiposi Akintoye (height 5’6, size 6), a 400L student of the faculty of law, UI, said. Speaking further, she added that “although most of that expression is bringing other people’s ideas to life. It is still something I love.”

Equally, Ayanfeoluwa, while noting that modelling was more than a mere profession, he added that it is a “platform for self-expression.” “Most modelling gigs in Ibadan are for free. They aren’t paid, but that doesn’t stop me from doing them because it’s something I love doing. It enables me to evoke emotions.”

For Adeyinka Adedayo (5’11), a 400L student of Agronomy, who began modeling “as a way to deal with self esteem” challenges, modelling has now become “a hobby.” “I’m a very creative person, and modeling is a way for me to express said creativity”, he remarked.

The dazzling appearance of models alongside their ever-changing outfits in their several photoshoots would easily sell the notion that modelling is a fairytale experience that puts models in high-end fashion wear, and takes them to five-star hotels in luxurious cars. However, it only takes a careful look to see that this is not the case. Belinda Shalls disclosed, admittedly, that modelling is quite “demanding.” My modelling career involves self-promotion through social media, networking events, and personal projects. Building strong relationships with clients, photographers, and other industry professionals”, she described. Without belabouring the point, modelling, as much as it is a profession of glamour, involves its own degree of labour.

From time to time, there is always the problem of upsetting one’s schedule; the need to eat way less than is actually necessary in a bid to maintain body weight; long torturous hours at the mercy of several stylists; the difficulty of striking precise poses, involving several repetitions; the pedantry of the profession; constant scrutiny. In fact, the demands are such that when one considers the many vicissitudes of the process, one realizes that the very final outcome of the process — the alluring, flashy picture(s)— is a paradoxical outcome, a varnish to the demanding process.

Relating to the rigour of the profession, Donald revealed that “as a model, I face various working conditions and demands that can be challenging like last-minute bookings, cancellations, or changes. Having long hours shoots in extreme temperatures, outdoors, or uncomfortable settings. Although presently, I’m not in an Agency so I don’t have anyone to cater for my welfare or about payment.”

Sadly, despite the labour involved, there is still the problem of undervalued work to contend with. “For a lot of jobs, the pay’s too low for the amount of work most models have to do. And because of how competitive the job market is, you have zero to no negotiating power”, Adeyinka voiced, his voice tinged with melancholy. For Ayomiposi, while her agency is “considerate and empathetic”, “the pay is not very encouraging.” “Value is not really given to modelling here, it’s always underpriced”, she observed.

When asked about the working conditions as well as the complementary financial remuneration, Belinda had a summary response that revealed much about the welfare aspect of her experiences with modelling in Ibadan. “I would just shorten this to the fact that I have never been paid more than 20k in Ibadan for any job”, she conceded.

As if the issue of poor remuneration is not enough challenge to grapple with, more disconcerting problems still afflict models within the industry, most of which are not just long-standing, but also not adequately revealed. In a New York Times article, ‘What it Truly Means to Be a Fashion Model’, the authors explained that the experiences of models within the fashion industry have been for long wrapped in mystery, behind the consciousness of the intrusive public glare. In their own words, “for decades, modeling was a silent profession, where women were supposed to be seen and never heard.”

Opening up on the issue of abuse and objectification within the profession, Donald, who started modelling officially in 2023, disclosed that “unfortunately, like many models, I have faced inappropriate behavior and harassment in the industry. However, I have been fortunate to have a strong support system, While I have not experienced severe physical or sexual abuse, I have encountered verbal harassment and body shaming from designers, photographers and most times at castings. Uncomfortable and unprofessional requests from clients or photographers.”

The problem is not peculiar to Donald alone, although not all may have the fortitude to reveal. When asked about her own experience within the industry, Belinda positively responded to experiencing such although she did not disclose the said experience(s). “Yes, I wouldn’t want to talk about it”, she said.

To a similar extent to Donald’s, Ayomiposi and Omolola’s experiences relate to body shaming. “Well yeah, mostly complaints about body size. The bulk of modelling always lands on if you fit the idea or good enough for the idea. For me it was my body size, especially my bust, so when it came to cloth fittings to the clients I was more of a disappointment”, Ayomiposi explained. According to Omolola, “I often get rejected because I am of a small size 6 and they feel none of their dresses will fit well, and that does hurt my feelings.”

In the earlier-mentioned article from the New York Times article, one thing most models mentioned as part of their almost day-to-day experience as models was the issue of objectification. According to several complaints, the being of models gets invalidated, reduced to mere objects of the form. Fashion directors, agencies, even up to photographers seem to forget that their subject of focus is equally a human being. Models are thus subjected to grapple with the fact that just anyone can get the liberty, as well as the “right” to pass comments on one’s outlook, or body aspects — not minding the tone of the comments or the human feeling of the subjects.

Speaking about this, Donald revealed that he has been objectified throughout his modelling career. “I’ve experienced objectification firsthand. It’s a pervasive issue that sometimes make me feel like commodities rather than human beings”, the independent model stated. Sharing further thoughts, he revealed that “for me, objectification manifests through body comments, I mean designers, photographers, or agencies making intrusive remarks about my weight, measurements, or physical appearance or being asked to pose in uncomfortable or provocative positions, or being objectified for my sexuality. These experiences have made me realize that objectification is deeply ingrained in the industry. It’s essential to recognize that we models are more than just bodies; we’re individuals with thoughts, feelings, and boundaries.”

“Yes, this (objectification) happens quite often. It’s crazy how they always seek perfection when it comes to bodies — you’re not allowed to be too fat or too skinny else clothes won’t fit perfectly. There’s always one thing or the other to complain about, sometimes even the face. For me, I mostly got complaints about how my boobs are too small”, Ayomiposi bemoaned.

The constant scrutiny, and commodification makes the model feel less independent as it obliterates the self. Belinda explained that “the longer you remain in the modelling aspect, the more you lose your independent personality. This is because modelling agencies request that models look, dress, and fall into popular stereotyped looks.”

Weighing in on the issue, Oyinbusola, who has been a freelance model for some time now, noted that “ I’ve not had any personal experience because I haven’t worked with any agency before but yes there are agencies that pass comments on models’ body or structure.” Explaining further on this issue, Oyin added that “there are basic things which are the general things that are needed in a model. These things differ based on gender although there are things that apply generally to both gender but aside from these basic requirements there are some directors that would go the extra mile in stating things they want in their models.” However, the possible question to be asked is the point at which the “extra mile” becomes objectification.

Quite associated with the problem of objectification is perhaps the problem of stereotype. Both the objectification of models and the problem of stereotype are twin issues in a way. This is simply because the major reason for which objectification occurs is to reform or reshape model subjects into the stereotypes preconceived by fashion designers and directors. Both phenomenon neglects the individuality of models and treats them in the currency of mere shapes and sizes.

Just recently GT Bank hosted its annual fashion fair, GTCO between November 9–10, 2024. During the application stage in the build up to the event, a particular applicant, Alexandra Obachi, caused an uproar online with the contents of her entry. A 5.9fts and size 12 woman, she alleged that GTCO would not have her selected as a result of a deep-seated prejudice that militates against women of plus sizes. Although Obachi was eventually selected, her accusations were valid. It has always been shown that modelling agencies and the fashion industry by extension have a penchant for fairly high standards in women, most commonly, women with low body mass index, measurements 34-24-34 inches, a dress size of 0-4 with height between 5’8 and 6’0. As a result, there is little diversity with the realistic sizes of the majority of women unrepresented (such as plus size women and small sized women as well).

In her opinion, Ayomiposi agreed that these stereotypes exist because “there is a saying that modelling is not for everyone.” “Even more so”, she continued, “ it’s a very harsh industry that demands almost close to perfection for whatever niche you’re trying to build. I’m a model but I can’t be a runway model because it’s only for tall people so that’s a barrier. In fact, I have noticed that one could argue that in most cases that an important criteria of being a model is to be tall, which is kind of a prejudice to small people as it limits the types of modelling they can participate in. Some eventually settle for face modelling because it doesn’t require body specifications too often.”

“Yes, I often get rejected because I am of a small size”, Omolola Asanso said without hesitation. The problem of stereotyping is not gender-based. It cuts through the experiences of models of both genders. Even as a male model, Donald equally shares similar experiences. “I agree that the fashion and modeling industry perpetuates idealized and stereotyped images of beauty, particularly for women. For some time now the industry has emphasized unrealistic standards of physical appearance, such as extreme thinness, height, and specific body proportions” he said.

More so, Donald explained having witnessed and experienced the prejudice of stereotyping “first-hand.” “As a male model”, he said, “I’ve witnessed and experienced this prejudice firsthand. The pressure to maintain an unrealistic weight and body shape and rejection during casting mainly because I do not fit into their ideal measurements”, he said, emphatically.

One thing this problem of stereotyping does is to limit the opportunities available to the model. For instance, Belinda revealed that “one of the major reasons why I haven’t been able to pursue a more national and international modeling career is because I keep getting called fat and short by modelling agencies at casting. And the most hilarious thing is that I am 5’8.11 and I weigh just 58.”

“There are certain features that are expected in models”, Oyinbusola started. “I, for instance, haven’t been able to get into a modelling agency because of my height. There is a standard height that a male model must meet and I do not have that. Thus, I’ve made some applications that have been unsuccessful because of my height. I’ve had several rejections because of my height.”

“Also, size is also a very important requirement in modelling. Each agency could specifically state what size exactly they want. The size requirement, I think, is not fixed unlike height but there are some sizes that are not acceptable no matter what.The thing that always amazes me is the fact that these rules are always bent for celebrities. It is only those that are “just” models that these rules are applicable to. Once, you’re a celebrity I don’t think any of these rules matter”, he commented. Sharing a similar experience, Adeyinka recalled that “the only challenge I’ve faced in this industry is an issue of my height. I’m 5’11. Most people prefer models that are 6’0 and taller.”

With issues like objectification of models, stereotyping, marginalization, not leaving out sexual abuse, being a common denominators to the experiences of models, it is only expected, although harrowingly, that health hazard such as mental health or self esteem issue may be an equally common experience. For a profession that should ordinarily bolster up confidence and inspire viewers to bring out the best of themselves, it’s disappointing to discover how the experiences of a number of models, especially student models, are counteractive. These unpleasant experiences expose the model, and in a worse case, a student model, to challenges health wise.

When they were asked about the health risk their experiences as models have exposed them to, while the trio of Omolola, Oyinbusola, Adeyinka simply answered in the negative, others had positive responses about the health risk the profession has exposed them to. “Yes, i don’t say this a lot”, Belinda said. But I suffer from Bipolar, depression, personality disorder and eating disorder, anxiety and the insufficiency syndrome”, she further added.

For her own part, Ayomiposi divulged, saying, “self esteem issue? Yes, because I started getting really conscious of my body, especially my boobs and would always worry whenever I’m to work with a client that whatever I’m to put on will fit.”

Speaking extensively, Donald disclosed the challenges he’s been exposed to. “Modeling has exposed me to several health hazards, mental health issues, and self-esteem concerns. Like having to maintain an unrealistic weight led to disordered eating and sometimes having long shooting hours which lead to sleep deprivation.”

He further said “anxiety and stress is also part of these concerns. Meeting client expectations, constant criticism, and competition creates overwhelming anxiety. Repeated rejections from casting, constant scrutiny has led to feelings of hopelessness many times.” These experiences are not particularly to them as students alone, it must be pointed out.

According to New York Times, in February, just as Paris Fashion Week began, a group of high-profile models — Jourdan Dunn, Edie Campbell, Leomie Anderson, Candice Swanepoel and Joan Smalls — voiced their support for James Scully, a casting director, who had taken to Instagram to condemn two colleagues, Maida Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes, for keeping models in an unlit stairwell for several hours.

A month later, models.com published results from a survey in which more than two dozen models discussed unprofessional working conditions, nonpayment and abuse in the industry. And in May, an Instagram post by the model Ulrikke Hayer in which she accused a casting director for a Louis Vuitton cruise show of telling her to consume nothing but water for 24 hours went viral. (The day after the water edict, she was informed that she would not walk in the show.) [According to the New York Times]. These are just the few ones that have crept upward from the cave of mystery into the glare of the public.

Instructively, modelling is a socio-cultural activity. It exists within a given sociocultural context; mirrors socio cultural normative values; and influences people within that context. As such, it can be influenced by policies, behaviours, and the reception of people within that context. Speaking about the idea of how student models are perceived by the school community, Omolola, dissatisfied, remarked that “they feel we expose our bodies and do shitty things.”

“I think the school management view models and fashionistas as creative and confident individuals who are potentially distracted from their academics or focused on non-academic pursuits”, Donald said. According to him, he observed that the school does not “favour models” considering the fact that the school does not have any extracurricular activity that prioritize modelling.”

While Ayomiposi, a 400L law student, noted that she was not aware of anti-models policies from the school, she informs that “I’m aware of the faculty law regulation which is against pageantry of any kind which in itself is a form of modelling. But I guess the rule is simply one can participate in any type of modelling except pageantry.” This view was equally reinforced by Oyinbusola, a 300L law student. He said “as a law student, I can’t participate in pageantry.” This view was equally reinforced by Oyinbusola, a 300L law student. He said “as a law student, I can’t participate in pageantry and that is one of the ways modelling agencies scout for potentials.”

In order to deal with the challenges student models face, certain improvements have to be done. According to Omolola, people should be “enlightened” about what models do. Furthermore, for her, to deal with the problem of stereotype and discrimination, “designers should give everyone a chance to be the best version of themselves out there as long as they know what they are doing.”

“To address the challenges faced by models, I think the industry should establish clear guidelines and regulations for modeling agencies, clients, and photographers. There should be diversity and inclusion initiatives, promoting representation and equal opportunities as well as safe working conditions, and timely payments”, Donald said.

He equally advocated for “inclusive casting” that gives wider representation of different” body types.” “The industry should also start catering to diverse body types and ensure equal opportunities for models of all backgrounds”, he informed.

For own part, Ayomiposi was of the opinion that “ values” should be given more to the modelling industry. And for the sake of dealing with stereotyping, “inclusivity” is the solution. For example, “runway modelling can reduce the height specification for females to 5’7”, she suggested.

“People should realize more that models are more than objects but humans with feelings”, Belinda voiced. “I believe the modelling agencies need to understand that God created a lot of individuals that apparently wouldn’t fit into their stereotype”, she informed. In addition to adopting inclusive policies and approaches, Adeyinka noted that “paying models their worth.

Ultimately, models, in a way, illuminate our visual world, opening us to levels of possibilities we can attain in our outlook and in appearance. Therefore, efficient systems must be put in place to check harmful practices to which they may be exposed in the course of their profession.